Your Ultimate Guide to McCarthy, Alaska: Where History Meets Adventure
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When I first told people that we were going to McCarthy, Alaska, the reactions were… mixed. A local in Anchorage even looked at us in disbelief and said he’d never make that drive himself. Between the stories we’d read online about the rough McCarthy Road and the sheer remoteness of the place, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But to my surprise, McCarthy turned out to be one of the most fascinating and rewarding places I’ve visited in Alaska.
Tucked inside the United States’ largest National Park, it’s a tiny town with fewer than 100 year-round residents, yet it packs in history, character, and more adventure than you’d think possible for a place so small. The outdoor activities are endless and range from touring the towering ruins of the Kennecott Mine and hiking out onto the Root Glacier, to soaring above the miles of glacier on a flightseeing tour.
If you’ve been wondering, “Is McCarthy, Alaska really worth visiting?” my answer is a definite yes. Here’s everything you need to know about planning a 3-day trip to this off-the-beaten-path gem, including where to stay, what to eat, and how to make the most of your time in this one-of-a-kind town. And if you’ve never heard of McCarthy, then you’re in for a treat! Part of the adventure is getting there, and that’s what makes it so special.
Tons of Glacial Till covering Root Glacier in Kennecott
Why Visit McCarthy, Alaska?
McCarthy isn’t the kind of place you just stumble upon. Most people have never heard of it, let alone put in the time it takes to get there. Located in Wrangell–St. Elias National Park toward the Alaska-Canada border, this tiny town was once known as the “sin city” for the nearby mining town of Kennecott. When the mine was booming in the early 1900s, McCarthy was where workers came for a taste of nightlife. After the mine closed, both towns nearly disappeared, but today McCarthy thrives as a quirky, seasonal community that welcomes adventurers looking for something different.
What makes McCarthy special is its mix of raw wilderness and fascinating history. You’ve got towering mountains, glaciers within reach, and some of the most unique lodging and dining experiences in Alaska, all in a place that feels completely removed from the rest of the world. It’s not luxury by any means, but it’s full of character and charm. And if you’re the type of traveler who loves small towns with big stories, McCarthy is worth the effort to get there!
Wrangell–St. Elias National Park
One of the best parts about visiting McCarthy is that it drops you right in the middle of Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, the largest national park in the U.S. This park is made up of 24 million acres! To give you an idea of its scale, it’s bigger than Switzerland, Yellowstone, and Yosemite combined.
The park is home to four mountain ranges, some of the tallest peaks in North America, and endless glaciers. But unlike Denali or Kenai Fjords, Wrangell–St. Elias is much less visited, which makes it feel wild and untouched.
McCarthy and Kennecott are the easiest access points into the park for everyday travelers. You don’t need to be a seasoned mountaineer or backcountry camper to experience it here. You can sleep in quirky hotels, grab a casual meal at The Potato, and still find yourself walking on a glacier or soaring above icefields the very next day.
Where to Stay in McCarthy
Lodging in McCarthy is as unique as the town itself. There are no cookie-cutter hotels here! There are a few lodging options along the main street of McCarthy, with more remote cabin options sprinkled around, and only one option in Kennecott. Needless to say, lodging can fill up quickly.
We stayed in McCarthy for four nights and stayed in two very different places, but I loved both for different reasons.
First up is Ma Johnson’s Hotel, which is like staying inside a museum! This historic boarding house has been lovingly restored, and every hallway and room is filled with artifacts that tell the story of the town’s past. The rooms are small and the bathrooms are shared, but that’s part of what makes the experience so memorable. You can tell the owner pours his heart into preserving McCarthy’s history, and staying here feels like being a part of it. This two-story hotel has been updated, but for the most part, still holds true to its original era. For example, there are no electrical outlets in the rooms, because back when the building first opened, electricity wasn’t as common as it is today.
For a different vibe, you can stay in the Kate Kennedy House, which ended up being my favorite. This restored Sears catalog home is full of charm, with vintage details that make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. It’s more spacious and private, which I appreciated, and having a wood-burning fireplace to cozy up by each night will be the perfect way to end your days. If you like lodging that combines history with a little extra comfort, this is the spot to choose.
Both Ma Johnson’s Hotel and the Kate Kennedy House are owned by the same person and are just steps away from each other. Breakfast is included with your stay and is held every morning at the Salmon & Bear Restaurant located across the street from Ma Johnson’s. Arrival and departure transportation to the McCarthy Footbridge is also included with your stay, so you don’t need to worry about lugging your bags from the footbridge to the hotel.
How to Spend Three Days in McCarthy
You may have noticed that I mentioned that I stayed in McCarthy for four days, but am only writing about how to spend three days there - that’s intentional. For the average traveler, three days is plenty of time to experience McCarthy and see the highlights. Four felt a little long, and if you’re traveling to Alaska to visit McCarthy, I would also recommend breaking up the journey back to Anchorage by spending a few days near Palmer. On the other hand, if you’re more adventurous and want to go on longer hikes or go ice climbing, then you will likely want to stay in McCarthy for more than four days. The outdoor activities are truly endless! Think multi-day hikes, rafting trips, and more. This three-day itinerary breaks down the top things to see in McCarthy for those who want to dip their toes into what the real Alaska has to offer.
Day 1: Arrive and Settle In
The drive to McCarthy is long, but arriving feels like stepping into a whole new world. By the time you reach the end of the road and cross the footbridge, you’ll feel giddy and ready to explore. No matter which way you arrive at McCarthy, you’ll most likely be tired after the long journey, and you’ll want to get a good night's sleep for the adventures to come on day two.
Check into either Ma Johnson’s Hotel or the Kate Kennedy House for a lodging experience just as unique as the town. The interior of Ma Johnson’s Hotel has narrow hallways, and the vintage artifacts make it feel more like a living museum than a place to sleep. Plus, it sets the tone for the history-filled adventures ahead!
For dinner, head to The Potato, where you can order hearty dishes and soak up the lively, casual vibe. This restaurant is one of the most popular establishments in McCarthy, and it’s also the largest. There is both indoor and outdoor seating, so you can keep taking in the clean, crisp air and views. Their menu has a little bit of everything, but their homemade wood-fired pizzas, which are only available on select nights, and their daily specials are the best in show.
Day 2: Kennecott and Root Glacier
Begin your first full day early with a hotel pickup around 8am from St. Elias Alpine Guides for your Half-Day Root Glacier Hike. This tour typically lasts about six hours, so plan to pack snacks and a simple lunch that you can easily eat while sitting on the glacier - think sandwiches, granola bars, or fruit.
The trail to the glacier starts in the historic mining town of Kennecott, just a short shuttle ride from McCarthy. Once you arrive at the St. Elias Alpine Guides office, you’ll meet your guide, gear up, and have a safety briefing before starting toward the glacier. The trail to the glacier is beautiful, but it’s also more strenuous than you might expect. The trail leading down to the ice is quite steep, and even for me (I’m in my mid-30s and in decent shape!). I definitely felt it on the way back up and thought going up was far more difficult than going down. If you’re older or not as comfortable with steeper climbs, you can still enjoy the experience, just take it slow or walk part of the trail to admire the glacier from a distance.
Once you reach the ice, your guide will help you strap on crampons and lead the way. Walking on a glacier feels surreal, like stepping onto another planet. The deep blue cracks, flowing meltwater streams, and sparkling ice formations make it one of the most breathtaking experiences in Alaska. Our guide shared fun facts and bits of history along the way, and while a few people in our group opted for a polar plunge, I was more than happy to just soak in the views from the top of the glacier.
After returning from your glacier hike, take a little time to rest and recharge before catching the last Mill Tour of the day, also hosted by St. Elias Alpine Guides. They’re the only company permitted to give tours of the historic Kennecott Copper Mill, which is the tallest wooden structure in the United States at 14 stories high.
The mill tour begins at the St. Elias office and lasts about two hours, with groups walking toward the mill and stopping for short history lessons along the way. Once you reach the base, a short uphill trail leads to the back entrance. This is where your hard-hat adventure really begins!
Inside, you’ll work your way down floor by floor, seeing the preserved machinery and tools that powered one of Alaska’s most important mining operations. It’s eerie in the best way, and fascinating to see how much of the structure still remains intact thanks to the National Park Service’s preservation efforts.
Timing Tip: If your arrival day allows, you can always take the Mill Tour on Day 1, or even on your last day after the flightseeing tour. It all depends on your pace and how much you want to fit into a single day.
When it’s time to eat, Kennecott has only a few options: the Kennicott Glacier Lodge, where you can stay or dine, and The Meatza Wagon, a small food truck that serves casual bites. Both are worth checking out before heading back to McCarthy for the evening.
Day 3: Flightseeing Adventure
After a full day of hiking and history, your final morning in McCarthy is all about seeing Alaska from a completely new perspective - the sky!
Start your day with Wrangell Mountain Air, the only air taxi company based right in McCarthy. Their small bush planes operate out of a nearby airstrip, and each flight feels like a personalized adventure. Most travelers opt for the 70-minute flightseeing tour, which is what I did, but they also offer longer scenic routes that stretch deeper into the park and get you closer to remote glaciers.
Meet at the Wrangell Mountain Air office in McCarthy about 10 minutes before your flight, and their shuttle bus will pick you up and take you to the airstrip. Once you’re in the air, get ready for jaw-dropping views of Wrangell–St. Elias National Park. You’ll soar over untouched landscape and see glaciers, braided rivers, icefields, waterfalls, and rugged mountain peaks that seem to go on forever. My favorite moment was flying over a huge area of white ice dotted with turquoise melt pools; the contrast of color was unreal.
The flight was smoother than I expected, even in a small 6-seater plane, and our pilot was fantastic about pointing out landmarks as we passed over them. We saw Kennicott Glacier, Root Glacier, and several others that stretched endlessly across the valley. Photos don’t do it justice; this is something you simply have to experience in person.
When you land back in McCarthy, grab a late lunch at The Potato before heading to the footbridge to depart.
Where to Eat in McCarthy
For such a small, remote town, the food scene in McCarthy fully surpassed my expectations. With that said, there are only about five dining options in total between McCarthy and nearby Kennecott. Hours can be limited, so it’s a good idea to plan ahead or be flexible, but the food is well worth it.
We loved The Potato, a local favorite that became our go-to during our stay. It’s casual, affordable, and serves everything from fresh, homemade pizzas to daily specials that feel surprisingly elevated. You can sit inside or grab a table outside and soak up the small-town atmosphere. We ended up eating at The Potato five or six times and tried something different every visit.
For something a little more upscale, Salmon & Bear is the spot. Their wine selection is impressive for a town this remote, and the dishes are just as thoughtful. I had fresh salmon topped with a crispy salmon skin chicharrón, and it was absolutely delicious.
We didn’t get the chance to try Meatza Wagon because of their limited hours, but we heard rave reviews. If you’re spending a couple of days in the area, I’d recommend working it into your plan.
Getting to McCarthy
Getting to McCarthy is part of the adventure, and there are a few ways to get to McCarthy from Anchorage. You can drive yourself, book a seat on one of the few shuttle companies, or you can drive to Chitina and then fly there on a small bush plane.
We opted to drive to really soak it all in and loved every minute. One very important thing to know if you plan on renting a car and driving to McCarthy is that most rental car companies do not allow you to drive on McCarthy Road or other unmaintained roads. Alaska 4x4 Rentals is one of the few companies that allows you to drive on McCarthy Road, and that’s who we went with. We had a great experience, and the pickup process at the airport was very smooth.
The drive from Anchorage takes about 7 to 8 hours, with the last 60 miles along the McCarthy Road, which is a dirt and gravel stretch built on the old railroad bed. I’ll be honest, we were nervous about this part. Before we left, we’d heard all the horror stories, and even a local in Anchorage was surprised to hear that we were driving to McCarthy. But with a little patience, it was nowhere near as bad as people make it sound.
Along the drive, there are scenic pull-offs where you can stretch your legs and take in incredible views, including a jaw-dropping look at Mount Drum as you head toward Glennallen. Just keep in mind that there aren’t a lot of food options on this route, so pack snacks or be prepared to grab fast food along the way. My guide on Everything You Need to Know About Getting to McCarthy has even more details.
Once you reach the end of McCarthy Road, you’ll park your car on the left side of the footbridge since outside vehicles aren’t allowed in town. Walking across the footbridge with your bag adds to the sense of adventure, and the views from the bridge alone are worth pausing for. From there, you can hop on the local shuttle to get to McCarthy or continue on to Kennecott, depending on where your accommodations are.
Tips for Planning Your Trip
Pack food and snacks for the drive. Options along the way are limited.
Give yourself plenty of time for the McCarthy Road; slow and steady is key.
Book lodging early, especially at Ma Johnson’s or the Kate Kennedy House, since options are limited.
Be flexible with dining. Hours can be inconsistent, but the food is worth it.
Plan activities in advance, especially glacier hikes or flyseeing tours, as they can fill quickly during peak season.
McCarthy is unlike anywhere else I’ve been in Alaska. It’s remote, quirky, and a little rough around the edges, but that’s exactly what makes it so special. Between the history of Kennecott, the thrill of walking on Root Glacier, and the unforgettable views from the air, our days here were packed with experiences I’ll never forget.
What surprised me most was how serene the town felt, even with its small seasonal buzz. The people who work here during the summer are passionate about adventure, and that energy is contagious. I also loved discovering the unexpected art scene, with locals and seasonal staff displaying their work at the town store and coffee shop.
If you’re planning your first trip, make sure to read my post on Everything You Need to Know About Getting to McCarthy before you go. It breaks down all your options for reaching this remote spot safely and stress-free.
And if you’re mapping out a bigger Alaska adventure, you might also love my 4 Days in Palmer, Alaska itinerary or my Ultimate 7 Day Alaska Itinerary from Anchorage, which explores more of the Southcentral Alaska area. Both will give you great ideas on easy add-ons to extend your trip.
McCarthy may be a little out of the way, but it’s well worth visiting. Once you make the journey, you’ll understand why it’s one of Alaska’s most unforgettable hidden gems. It’s not the kind of place with endless dining options or luxury hotels, but if you want to experience the real Alaskan wilderness, it doesn’t get much better than this.
Happy travels!
-Tess
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Tess Arnold
Hi! I’m Tess, founder of TravelingTessie.com, and not only do I love to travel, but I love immersing myself in new places and finding off the beaten path experiences wherever I go! I’ve lived in 4 different states & traveled to 13 countries and counting. I believe that tourism is meant to benefit both visitors and locals alike—and I want to bring that idea back into the travel industry by highlighting companies run by locals such as tours, hotels, restaurants, and more. On Traveling Tessie you can find hidden gems in top destinations around the world, travel tips, detailed city guides, and tons of inspiration for your next trip! If you love travel as much as I do, then please join me on this journey! I hope you enjoy my content as much as I enjoy providing it for you!